Monday, 30 August 2010

All paths lead to Jewellery London

International Jewellery London has announced the participants of the 2010 KickStarters, an initiative supported by the BJA, which launched last year as a bursary scheme for fledging jewellery designers.

The line-up of promising BJA members who will feature this year as KickStarters is as follows:

Daisy Knights - launched as a Bright Young Gem at IJL 2009, Central Saint Martins graduate Daisy Knights is a Cotswolds-based jewellery designer who at 22 years old has already received much acclaim. Daisy creates timeless, wearable jewellery, inspired by nature, and combines her designs with an infusion of punk and rock 'n' roll. Every piece is handcrafted in her studio in the Cotswolds or in her workshop using silver and gold vermeil. She also loves doing bespoke commissions in platinum, diamonds and gold. Daisy is passionate about ethically sourced materials and uses 100% recycled silver as well as ethically mined gold and diamonds in her fine jewellery collection.

NicoleAkong - used to sit at her desk in her high-flying City job, dreaming of one day doing something creative with her time. Then, in 2008, she took her first jewellery-making course and unlocked a remarkable hidden talent. The resulting designs attracted so much attention that she decided to take a leap of faith and launched her own jewellery label, Akong London, at the start of 2010. Nicole designs jewellery not simply as accessories but as fashion statements and status symbols in their own right. Each piece embodies the spirit of haute couture, using high-quality materials, constructed with extreme attention to detail using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Her work features everything from semi-precious gemstones, glass and crystal, to feathers, fur, velvet and lashings of gold and silver chains.

Saretta - is statement jewellery; unique and unashamedly bold designs that are made to be noticed. Saretta’s Creative Director, Sarah Bond - a trained anthropologist - founded the company with a vision to make wearable couture-style jewellery using ethically sourced precious metals and gemstones. Sarah has wide-ranging experiences working with local communities in Africa, Asia and South America and focuses her attentions as a jeweller on promoting Fairtrade responsible mining for gemstones and bullion. Sarah uses a wide range of techniques including the lost-wax method, recycling metals and re-forming, along with her own methods she has developed to give a unique finish to pieces. Saretta jewellery is created in silver, gold and platinum, and is handmade in the London studio.

Jessica de Lotz – a Central St Martins graduate (2008), Jessica de Lotz creates jewellery collections which are narrative-based tributes reflecting on the ‘social lives’ of objects and the history of their owners. Largely inspired by her father, a self employed military book seller with an ethos of ‘Make do and Mend,’ Jessica believes that all the objects one needs are available already, so it’s just a matter of sourcing them. Guided by an overriding appreciation of age and history, Jessica’s jewellery embodies the concepts of time, concealment and heritage. Largely working in silver, Jessica also specialises in hand carved mock ivory.

Christopher Anderson Design – works with CAD and his latest designs use an interlocking two part component in contrasting metal colours. When discussing the inspirations for his jewellery, Christopher identifies his passions as the allure of gemstones, geometric and architectural forms, and the lustre of precious metals, as well as the contrast of colour. In terms of materials, he works with silver, 18ct yellow and white gold and an array of coloured stones including sapphires, aquamarines, peridot, emerald, ruby, topaz, garnet and diamond.

Daisy Choi – is a jewellery artist designer-maker. Her company, 'DAY C', has its studio in Clerkenwell, London. Daisy's background in 2D and 3D design is reflected in her work, combining the two to create playful yet meaningful and functional jewellery. Her design ideas are inspired by everyday objects, and blend artistic expression with wearability. Daisy’s current collection is based on the concept of ‘Wearing a Thought’. The new collections are ‘Diamond Temptation’ and ‘Best Before’. These collections make imaginative use of precious materials such as18ct gold, silver, gems and non-precious materials such as rubber and porcelain.

Momocreatura - has been founded by Momoko Tamura who initially studied fine arts and jewellery making in Japan and graduated in MA Jewellery Design at Central St. Martins in 2009. Her jewellery explores the boundaries between reality and fantasy through the depiction of fairy-tale inspired images. Influenced by European antique jewellery of the 16th-19th century and post-war Japanese sub culture, she combines her references to create figurative macabre objects. They are more like 3D illustration or wearable miniature sculptures rather than what is so-called jewellery. The hallmarked silver and gold pieces are finely handcrafted assemblages of child-like imagination, suggestive of ambiguous, twisted humour.

Poly Philippou - is an independent jewellery designer and maker who lives and works in East London. Since setting up her business three years ago, she has sold increasingly by word of mouth and recommendation and has also been stocked at gallery shops in London and Brighton. Whilst doing all her production in the UK, she has succeeded in keeping the pieces high quality and her pricing competitive. Poly specialises in contemporary silver jewellery which is designed to be accessible - versatile, easy to wear and affordable, and which looks just as good worn with a suit, evening wear or more casually. Many ranges suit both men and women. She draws inspiration from the natural world to create the simple clean shapes that are her signature pieces. Poly also adapts pieces for individual customers and undertakes commission work.

Sian Bostwick Jewellery – Launched in late 2009 in Rochester, Sian Bostwick Jewellery is unique and handmade. Its fantasy, fairytale dreamscape style brings a timeless essence and grown up playfulness to brighten every day. Three major collections are currently being produced - Titanium Butterflies, Titanium Flowers and Wonderland, alongside other individual and bespoke pieces. The titanium collections combine silver and anodised titanium, which produces a range of bright blues and rich purples that, in contrast with the silk finished silver, achieve an individual and elegant look which brings a pretty spring-summer feel to any outfit. The Wonderland collection features three-dimensional silver heart necklaces.

Hannah Bedford - Hannah Bedford’s jewellery designs explore texture and form using the traditional processes of granulation, reticulation and Keum-boo (fine gold fusing). Working in golds and silver, Hannah creates a range of women’s jewellery, from bespoke neckpieces through to delicate earrings and rings. Collections are inspired by organic growth patterns in the natural world. Hannah uses gold fusing and granulation to create raised, textured surfaces that entwine each piece and takes great care to work on the underside of a piece. The work is often led by these technical explorations, using them to play with scale, form and contrasting precious metals to create aesthetically beautiful forms.

Visitors at IJL this September (5th-8th) can meet the designers and view their work, on stand E49.

Wednesday, 14 July 2010

Inspirational beauty in Silver & Diamonds

The Hot Diamonds Jewellery Collection is a contemporary range that was created so as to share the experience of owning a diamond with everyone, by setting diamonds with Sterling Silver. Hot Diamonds have created stunning collections featuring pendants, necklaces, rings, bangles, bracelets, earrings and charms, as well as a stylish Men’s collection. Using conflict free diamonds set in silver and gold the Hot Diamonds collection embodies top design and high fashion with a conscience. Each piece of Hot Diamonds jewellery is of an original design and hand-crafted to a high standard.

My pick of the week from the Hot Diamonds collection is this stunning ‘Selene’ necklace. Selene is the Greek word for 'moon' and at the centre of this collection is this orb shaped talisman. This beautiful and individual talisman is a sign of mystery and enchantment. The star motif of the Selene collection is showcased on a delicate 28 inch silver chain with heart-shaped links.


Hot Diamonds charms are precious mini talismans to collect, to give and to love. With Hot Diamonds charms, you can also choose to add charms to your collection in the future to celebrate special occasions, as gifts or as a special treat for yourself. All charms feature the signature diamond and are fitted with a carabina clasp, to make mixing and matching charms onto bracelets, pendants and necklaces a breeze. Easily connect or remove charms to suit your mood. The silver charms are rhodium plated for extra shine and lustre. Some charms also feature 9ct gold plated accents.

Hot Diamonds captures a timeless spirit that diamond jewellery brings with hot looks that are fun, sexy and alluring. Why wait for that special occasion? Go and experience Hot Diamonds for yourself today.

Tuesday, 15 June 2010

Jewellery Jargon Buster

I’ve been in and around the jewellery trade for over 20 years and, like most other businesses, it is full of confusing jargon. So if you don’t know your carat from your carabina or your platinum from your plating, here’s part one of our easy guide with five jargon busting tips.

1. Carat

This is confusingly used twice in jewellery with each definition meaning totally different things.

Firstly, carat is used to describe the size/weight of gemstones. One carat is divisible into 100 points much the same as one pound is divisible into 100 pennies. Hence, half a carat equals 50 points, quarter of a carat equals 25 points and so on.

Secondly, carat is used as a measure of the purity of gold, the most common being 9, 14 or 18 carat. Pure gold is too soft to be used to make jewellery and so the gold is alloyed with other metals to make it more practical to use. The carat refers to the percentage of gold present in the item. Common abbreviations for carat are ‘ct’ or ‘k’. 9ct gold contains 37.5% gold, 14ct contains 58.5% gold and 18ct contains 75% gold.

2. Diamond Clarity & Colour

While the carat size of a diamond is the same from one jeweller to the next, the variance in the price of diamonds can be explained by the differing grade of colour and clarity. Two diamonds of identical carat weight may have vastly different price tags due the difference in colour and clarity. Each diamond is graded for colour against international standards of whiteness ranging from exceptionally white (D) to brown coloured (S-Z). Likewise, each diamond is graded for its clarity. The majority of diamonds have natural inclusions present within the stone. These are not flaws but can be described as nature’s fingerprints having occurred during the formation of the diamond. The fewer inclusions a diamond has, the rarer and more valuable it becomes.

3. Sterling Silver

Much the same as the term carat is used for gold, sterling is used to describe the purity of an item of silver jewellery. Sterling silver contains 92.5% silver.

4. Platinum

A naturally white metal which is non-tarnishing, hypo-allergenic & extremely durable. Items of jewellery contain 95% platinum. The highest priced of all the precious metals due to its rarity and production costs. Over 10,000 tonnes of ore have to be mined to recover one ounce of platinum.

5. Rhodium

Another hard wearing, naturally white metal. Most commonly used to plate items of jewellery made in white gold. White gold has a dull, off-white colour when produced. To make it more pleasing to the eye, a coating of rhodium is applied.

We’ll have another set of jewellery jargon busters here soon.

Friday, 11 June 2010

If Gold is yellow, then what is white Gold?

Many of my clients are confused by the term white gold. All real gold is yellow, isn't it? So how can it be white?—is it an imitation? The answer is no, it isn’t an imitation at all. It is an alloy, a new metal created by combining two or more different metals.

When we think of gold we usually think of yellow gold. But there are other colours of gold available, of which white gold is one of the most popular and fashionable. Pure gold is generally too soft to be used for jewellery, so other metals are added to it. Creating gold in different colours is done by mixing gold with other metals thus creating an alloy. White gold alloys are just as "real" as their yellow gold counterparts.

If you look at a piece of your own jewellery, it’s highly likely to be hallmarked either 18ct, 14ct or 9ct to indicate how much pure gold is present in the mix.
White gold is an alloy of gold and some white metals such as silver and palladium. White gold can be 18ct, 14ct, 9ct or any carat. For example, 18ct yellow gold is made by mixing 75% gold (750 parts per thousand) with 25% (250 parts per thousand) other metals such as copper and zinc. 18ct white gold is made by mixing 75% gold with 25% other metals such as silver and palladium. So the amount of gold is the same but the alloy is different.

Traditionally nickel was used in white gold; however nickel is no longer used in most white gold made today as it can cause reactions with some people.

When white gold jewellery is made it is coated with another white metal called Rhodium. Rhodium is a metal very similar to platinum and Rhodium shares many of the properties of platinum including its white colour.


The rhodium plating is used to make the white gold look whiter. The natural colour of white gold is actually a light grey colour. The Rhodium is very white and very hard, but it does wear away eventually. To keep a white gold ring looking its best it should be re-rhodium plated approximately each 12 to 18 months. Most local jewellers are able to rhodium plate jewellery for a cost effective price.

White Gold jewellery has seen its popularity rise greatly over the last decade and is firmly established as THE metal of choice for today’s image conscious consumer.

Saturday, 5 June 2010

Beautiful Pearls enjoy a Renaissance

2010 has seen a long overdue return to high fashion of pearl jewellery. From ageless classics to stylish contemporary designs, June's birthstone is enjoying a real renaissance. And here's why.

Pearls are organic gems, created when an oyster covers a foreign object with beautiful layers of nacre. Long ago, pearls were important financial assets, comparable in price to real estate, as thousands of oysters had to be searched for just one pearl. They were rare because they were created only by chance.

Today pearls are cultured by Man. Shell beads are placed inside an oyster and the oyster is returned to the water. When the pearls are later harvested, the oyster has covered the bead with layers of nacre. Most cultured pearls are produced in Japan. In the warmer waters of the South Pacific, larger oysters produce South Sea cultured pearls and Tahitian black cultured pearls, which are larger in size. Freshwater pearls are cultured in mussels, mostly in China.

The quality of pearls is judged by the orient, which is the soft iridescence caused by the refraction of light by the layers of nacre, and lustre, the reflectivity and shine of the surface. Fine pearls do not have any flaws or spots in the nacre: it has an even, smooth texture. Other factors which affect value are the regularity of the shape, size, and colour: rose tints are the most favoured.

The natural range of colours in freshwater pearls is from white to tan to gray, depending primarily on the species that is used in production. Enhancements are so common that unless it is specifically stated by the seller, you should assume a pearl has been at least bleached to remove dark spots of conchiolin that show through the nacre. More dramatic techniques, such as dying or irradiation, produce pearls with exotic colours such as green, rose and lavender.

Although pearls are delicate, they have been successfully used in jewellery for thousands of years. As they are sensitive to heat, chemicals and abrasion, they should be stored in a cloth bag or their own box away from contact with other materials. They should be protected from chemicals such as hairspray and perfume. Wiping them with a damp cloth after wearing and occasional cleaning in mild soapy water is all that's required. Under no circumstances should they be placed in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Jewellery settings in rings and bracelets should be protective, or if not, (as in many pearl rings,) the piece should be considered for occasional use only, rather than daily wear.

Faux pearls have been around for a long time and can consist of a variety of materials such as glass, plastic or shell with various surface treatments meant to simulate the pearls lustre. A rule of thumb when testing a suspect pearl is to rub it across the surface of your teeth. Real pearls will feel slightly gritty, most imitations will feel smooth.

Wednesday, 2 June 2010

The Saviour of Stylish Jewellery

Anyone looking for a super stylish, luxury piece of jewellery with an affordable price tag need look no further than my pick of the week. This diamond set pendant by ‘So Jewellery’ is from the ‘Symphony’ collection and, just like every piece from ‘So Jewellery’, it exudes class.

Made entirely from solid 925 Sterling Silver the pendant features a half satin, half 18ct Gold plate finish and shaped to resemble a flickering flame. The delightful design is completed with a single diamond set centrally in the open ‘flame’ and is hung from a smooth snake chain. To give the piece maximum versatility, the chain is adjustable to either 16 & 18 inch lengths.

As with all pieces from ‘So Jewellery’, this pendant is part of a three piece collection with matching ring and earrings completing the suite. The ‘piece de resistance’ comes with the packaging- a detail sadly overlooked by many jewellery brands. The box is simple and understated with central ribbon detail but again shows a classy touch with a concealed magnetic clasp to close.

This attention to detail is evident throughout ‘So Jewellery’s’ entire collection. The concept behind So Jewellery is to give customers a focused choice of designs which are made to exceptionally high standards. So Jewellery’s ranges currently include three distinct collections: So Forever diamonds, So Classic pearls and semi-precious stones and So Male men’s jewellery. Across the ranges there are currently over 300 designs of earrings, pendants, rings, bracelets and cufflinks which is ever-evolving.

In a world where ‘bling’ is king, it’s refreshing to find that style & class have not been totally lost.

Tuesday, 25 May 2010

What is Todays Hottest Jewellery???

Undoubtedly the hottest products in jewellery today are charm beads. The success of this product over the past four years has been simply staggering. Such has been the impact of charm beads that no serious jewellery retailer can be without them. And yet the whole phenomena still seems to have by-passed a large number of people. How can this be?? Lack of information? Too much information?

The concept really is very straightforward. Here is my no-nonsense guide to charm beads & to starting your own charm bead collection.

So, what is a charm bead bracelet? Quite simply, a charm bead bracelet is a unique jewellery system allowing wearers to change and customise their bracelet. These modular bracelets consist of a thick chain onto which different charm beads can be put. These charm beads are made from gold, silver or Murano glass, and are interchangeable, allowing the wearer to create their own look and tell their own story. The charm beads can also be worn on necklaces.

Founded in Denmark in 1976, Trollbeads developed the original charm bead bracelet jewellery concept. Charm bead fans had to wait until 1999 for the launch of Pandora’s ever popular charm bead bracelet on the Danish market. Since 2000 numerous charm bead brands have emerged, each one offering their own particular slant on the charm bead bracelet. At the forefront of the newer brands are Tedora, Truth, Chamilia & Lovelinks.

Possibly the greatest area of confusion that arises when selecting a charm bead bracelet is the subject of compatibility. Will other beads fit onto the bracelet you are about to buy?? Of all the 'major' charm bead systems on the market today, the vast majority are universal and will accommodate beads from other brands. The two exceptions to this are Lovelinks and Truth. Both Lovelinks & Truth charm bead bracelets will only hold their own collection of beads. That said, Truth do have over 450 charm beads in their range so you will not be short of designs to choose from.


On a personal note, I adore the quality and Italian styling of Tedora charm beads. Beautifully crafted from sterling silver, these charm beads simply ooze class. From simple, understated beads to elaborate filigree caged glass, Tedora charm bead bracelets are definately a statement of style.

So there it is. A whistle stop "everything you need to know" tour of charm beads. Now all you need to do is get started and begin your charm bead bracelet adventure today.

Monday, 24 May 2010

So, How Do I Clean & Care for my Silver Jewellery??

Over the past twenty years, one of the most frequently discussed subjects with my customers is how to care and clean silver jewellery. As a natural material, silver reacts with its environment, especially the chemicals in the air and, over time, silver does become tarnished. This doesn’t mean that your fabulous new piece of jewellery is defective, far from it; it just proves that your beautiful accessory is good quality silver.

Many people also encounter tarnishing or discolouring to silver jewellery caused by oils & acids from the skin or perfume and hairspray. It’s very simple to get your silver jewellery back to its former glory and, like most things, the earlier you catch the tarnish the easier it is to get rid of it. My advice falls simply into these few steps.

1. You can clean your mildly tarnished silver at home with Sterling Silver dips - but be warned, you do need to be careful! Jewellery dips, while very effective at removing tarnish, are equally as effective at removing the colour and polish off some gemstones. It’s a good habit to try not to dip any jewellery with stones, but the gemstones that are particularly affected are pearls, sodalite, malachite, lapis lazuli, white opals, turquoise or any soft or porous stones. Remember not to leave your jewellery in the dip too long and don’t rinse it off with cold water otherwise you could find your jewellery gets a white residue which can be as hard to remove as the tarnish. To make sure your jewellery stays perfect, always read the manufacturer’s instructions.

2. To clean untarnished silver (and keep it that way), use a phosphate-free detergent or non-abrasive cloth made for cleaning jewellery - these cloths should come with a built in jewellery cleaner.

3. Try to keep your silver jewellery away from chemicals, in particular strong detergents. I would always strongly suggest removing your silver jewellery before swimming or bathing. Chlorine in swimming pools, salt in the sea & soaps at bathtime don’t react favourably with your silver jewellery.

4. I would also recommend that your silver jewellery is stored in a self seal bag. This isolates the piece from air conditions that may contain sulphides. Also try and store it a dry and cool environment. The hotter the environment the greater the chance of more sulphides which cause more tarnish.

Following these simple guidelines will ensure your silver remains beautiful and sparkling. Above all, make sure to wear and enjoy your jewellery. That’s what it was designed for after all.

Thursday, 13 May 2010

Ice Jewellery- How did it all start?

Ok, let’s start right at the beginning. Ice Jewellery was founded in September 2003 by me, Tony Mutch, & my wife Clare. We had both been in the ‘trade’ for many years (too many some would say) working for one of the big UK multiples but had grown weary of the ‘same old product’, ‘same old routine’ treadmill.

So, within the space of a month we had waved goodbye to our comfy, regular monthly salary and plunged head first into the world of the start-up business as Ice Jewellery was born. Our ethos in business always has been & always will be the desire to provide our customers with a product that we have great pride in and service that is truly exceptional.

From humble beginnings selling silver jewellery from a shopping centre mall cart, Ice Jewellery has flourished and is now celebrating seven years of successful trading. Currently based in beautiful Devon, our product range has certainly come a long way from those early days.

Stylish silver jewellery from a variety of destinations forms the bedrock of our jewellery range. We hand pick all the pieces to ensure they ‘fit’ our customers’ requirements & tastes. We have a careful blend of our own selections and leading brand names such as ‘So Jewellery’ & ‘Hot Diamonds’.
No contemporary jeweller today would be without a show of silver charm beads and Ice Jewellery is no exception. Our Truth & Tedora ranges provide us with the perfect mix of modern and classic charm beads.

Never ones to be shy of taking on more challenges, we decided in 2006 to take the ‘Ice Jewellery’ experience direct into the homes of our customers by launching our party plan business. Initially Clare carried out the parties herself but we soon realised the potential of party plan as she was inundated with bookings and had to turn customers away. In 2008 (after the birth in 2006 and 2007 of our sons Joshua & Jolyon) we started to recruit consultants in our local area. Since then we have had 2 fabulous years of planning and producing our party plan model ready to launch this year (2010) recruit consultants across the UK.

Our move into online trading began in January 2009 with the launch of IceJewellery.com. This proved to be a huge challenge but one we relished. It proved to be a very exciting time and mirrored the feelings we had when originally starting the business. Getting the products online & marketing the website proved to be very challenging but greatly rewarding. With over 1100 products online, we now find it a totally invaluable part of Ice Jewellery and can’t imagine running a successful business without it.

And so to now. What’s happening in the business today? In-store and online we continue to develop, blossom, improve and remain true to our original ethos. We are now one of the fastest growing jewellery party plan businesses in the UK with our team of party consultants expanding on a weekly basis. Our aim is to become the UK's biggest Jewellery party plan company and then to expand overseas. Follow our journey through our blog or join our team to be part of it. Ice Jewellery is definitely on the map!